The most common questions I receive in my email are about carving tools. These include inquiries such as “What tools do I need?” and “Are Japanese knives the best?” Another frequently asked question is whether one needs to purchase an expensive kento-nomi. I find it puzzling that these questions make up the majority of inquiries, as my inclination is to advise not to worry too much about the specific tools. I suggest simply getting a cutter from a local hardware store and starting to carve. As you gain experience, you will develop a better understanding of which tools will be most helpful to you. However, this response is often not what people want to hear. There is a vast array of knives, cutters, chisels, and gouges available in stores, all capable of making marks in wood.
Encyclopedia of Woodblock Printmaking : Carving Tools
Hangi-to
Also known as the ‘chokoku-to’ or simply ‘to’, this carving knife, pronounced ‘hang gee toe’, is essential in any woodblock print making set. It is the only tool in the set that is not symmetrical, so it is available in left-handed and right-handed versions. Typically, it comes in sizes ranging from 1.5mm to 9mm in width, although the extreme sizes are seldom utilized. The photo provided depicts a right-handed ‘to’ of the ‘standard’ size, measuring 6mm.
Ai-suki (ah ee soo kee)
The term “literally” refers to the transparency of the inbetween. This may or may not provide a clue about the usage of these chisels. These chisels have a flat blade with a slightly rounded tip and are utilized by pushing them to remove wood from the spaces between lines carved with the hangi-to. Typical sizes range between 1mm and 6mm.
Maru-nomi
The term ’round-chisel’ describes this tool, and it differs from all the other tools discussed previously because it requires a hammer or mallet. When viewed head-on, the blade has a ‘U’ shape. These tools usually come in sizes ranging from 4.5mm to 15mm and are categorized into two main types – shallow or deep. Their purpose is to efficiently eliminate excess wood from the exposed portions of the block.
Soai-nomi (so ah ee no me)
The soai-nomi are a subset of the ‘hira-nomi’ chisels that have slightly rounded corners and produce cleaner blocks compared to the hira-nomi. They are used with a large mallet to remove wide areas of unwanted wood from the block. The one I currently possess, handed down to me by an older carver, is almost square-shaped and could be classified as a ‘hira-nomi’. These chisels come in various sizes ranging from 9mm to 30mm, with a 21mm width being the most commonly used.
Kento-nomi
Consider adding the following item to your shopping list: a chisel. It is important to note that this particular chisel is quite pricey and is used specifically for cutting the two registration marks on each block. The chisel features a straight blade and must be maintained in a sharp and pristine condition to ensure precise cutting of the marks. Additionally, it is worth mentioning that this particular tool is also utilized by printers who cut registration marks on color blocks, not just carvers.
For the standard traditional selection of carving tools, that’s all there is. Carvers who follow the old style exclusively made use of only these tools. However, it would be negligent to not at least acknowledge the existence of two additional types that are currently widely used.
Koma-suki is a phrase used to describe a way of thinking that involves breaking down tasks into smaller, manageable steps.
- These are a family of ‘push-type’ chisels, used in the hand like the aisuki (without a hammer), but with a U-shaped blade rather than a flat one. They have the same size range as the aisuki, from 1mm up to 6mm. They cut a small ‘trough’ shape in the surface of the block.
San-kaku to sau youseikatsu no chōsa ni yoru to, jinsei no hitsuyōna yōhō ya jinsei no nodoza ga warui to iu kansatsu ga aru.
- The word means ‘triangular knife’, and this corresponds to the western ‘V’ shaped gouge. These also typically range from 1mm to 6mm.
After providing the basic description, which specific tools are essential for beginning to create woodblock prints?
Without specifying the type of prints you desire to create, we cannot provide a definite response regarding your purchasing decision. However, for projects executed in the traditional Japanese ‘outline’ technique, the following materials could be suitable options.
- Hangito 4.5mm, 6mm (a selection sharpened in a variety of ways as outlined above)
- Marunomi 6mm (deep), 15mm (shallow)
- Soainomi 24 mm
- Aisuki 1mm, 1.5mm, 3mm, 6mm (plus a couple with very fine points made from sewing machine needles as outlined above)
- Kento-nomi
These tools are listed here in the same order they are used in cutting a block. Firstly, the outlines are incised using the hangi-to. Once that step is completed, the marunomi is used to go around the wide open areas, ensuring to stay just outside of the cut lines. Following that, the soainomi is employed to remove the unnecessary wood from the wide open areas. Finally, the aisuki is utilized to trim away the excess between the marunomi trench and the cut lines. All of my work is carried out using this relatively small group of tools. (The marunomi and soainomi are used in conjunction with a hammer, while the aisuki is pushed and the to is drawn towards you.)
TOP 10 WOOD CARVING TIPS & TRICKS
1. LEARN TO SHARPEN
If you intend to power carve, it is still recommended to strop your reciprocating tool gouges, chisels, and V-tools. Even disposable blades like X-Acto or Warren blades will have improved cutting performance after being stropped.
2. KNOW THE LOCATION OF THE SHARP EDGE
To enhance your carving skills, it is important to have knowledge about the location of the sharp edge or spinning bit and its potential trajectory. This understanding will not only help you safeguard your body parts and others’, but also aid in improving your carving technique. By constantly being attentive to the cutting edge, particularly the tip, you will be able to make more intentional cuts and achieve better results in your carving.
3. TAKE AWAY WOOD
Woodcarving is a subtractive form of art in which it is challenging to remove excessive material. The more one delves into the project, the greater the potential for reshaping it. The work gradually improves in appearance until there is no more wood remaining.
4. LEARN PROPORTIONS
If you position the tip of your nose at the inner corner of a square, the sides of the square will align with your cheekbones, which form a right angle.
5. CARVE EYES
The deepest part of the face is the inside corners of the eye.
6. ADD HIGHLIGHTS
To create buttons, highlight dots for eyes, or any other desired round shape, utilize a toothpick or stylus to produce flawless circular dots of paint.
7. WOOD BURN TO ADD TEXTURE
To expedite your carving, utilize a wood burning tool to incorporate fur texture.
8. LINE UP YOUR EYES
If you are right-handed, start by completing the carving of the right eye, which would be the eye on the left side as you face it. This allows you to have a visual reference to match the left eye as you carve it. Conversely, if you are left-handed, reverse the order and start by carving the left eye.
9. MAKE THE LARGEST CHIP CUT FIRST
When engaging in chip carving, it is generally advisable to begin by carving the largest chips. In order to maintain a systematic approach, it is recommended to make the first cut on a new chip away from the location where the last one was made on the preceding chip.
10. HOLD A POWER CARVING TOOL PROPERLY
When power carving, it is recommended to hold small projects in your hand. This is because normal breathing can cause involuntary and uncontrolled movements of the hands. To overcome this, hold the power carver in the same manner as you would hold a pencil and extend a finger from one hand to touch the other. By doing so, both hands will move together in a coordinated manner.
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